Coorg Food Trail

Coorg is the anglicized name for Kodavu, the dominant inhabitants are the Kodavas (Coorgs). The name Kodavas comes from the word 'Kodagas' referred to the mountain clan of Coorg. This luscious evergreen district in the Western Ghats, is covered by forest, coffee plantations, uncultivated dry lands (bané) and cultivated wet lands (béhl). The towns, villages and houses in Coorg are spread out. The towns are few and are not overcrowded.

The Kodavas are an indigenous tribe native to the mountains of Coorg (Kodagu) who have a diverse history. There are different versions on what has influenced our character and culture. In Kaveri Ponnapas's book the Vanishing Kodavas, a testimonial from Antonios Vasileiadis from Northern Greece, appointed Commander of an ancient sailing vessel states that the customs of Coorg resemble those of Ancient Greece; another said that our traditional attire for men and even some male names were similar to those of the Middle East. We also know that we had English settlements in Coorg given the spice route and coffee trade by sea. A lot of the English culture has rubbed off on us in the way we conduct ourselves socially. Our cuisine however isn't the best suited for an English palate (quote G. Richter)

The crop cultivation is influenced by plants brought in by the English and is true to what is commonly found in Southern Asian forests. Bamboo forests and Rice fields are in plenty in Coorg. Coffee, Pepper Cocoa and Cardamom are others. The Coorgs also grow English vegetables like Pumpkins, Brinjals, Amaranthus, Turnips, Cabbage, Colocasia and Knoll to name a few. Asian and African crops like Jackfruit, Avocado and Grains are also grown in plenty.

As a Coorg, my siblings and I were blessed to have grown up eating delectable Kodava (Coorg) dishes, including delicacies like Muddré Kanni (Horsegram Gravy),Baimblé Curry (Bamboo Curry) and Kaad Maangé Curry (Wild Mango Gravy). Even though we grew up in New Delhi, we were pampered by our relatives in Coorg who spoilt us with the most elaborate meals during our holidays and gave us goody bags of Thindis to take back to Delhi.

We once procured a bunch of Maddu Thoppu (Medicinal Leaf called Justicia wynaadensis) to make the maddh kūl or maddh thopp payasa (a sweet rice porridge).

Rice being grown widely and variations of dishes made out of it, is part of the staple diet. Kadambutt, Papputt, Noolputt and Akki Otti to name a few. A video of my grandmother and me making rice balls or kadambutt for Kailpodh. These rice balls are made with a special kind of rice thari available in Coorg, the thari is cooked with water to a mash and then rolled into balls by applying some ghee on your palms.

But everything aside, Pork or pandhi is a meat widely embraced by our warrior clan. The pandhi curry is a thick base curry with Kachampulli being the key ingredient giving it it's colour and character. Kachampuli is a vinegar extract sauce (pulp juice) made from the Garcinia Gummi-Gutta fruit. The process of making Kachampuli is laborious and the quantity used in our dishes is so minimal. This fruit is only found during the monsoon in Coorg.

My grandmother explains how they traditionally extracted kachampuli from the gummi-gutta fruit.

The gravy dishes include like Koli (chicken) curry, Kumm (mushroom) curry, Kori Erachi (mutton) curry, Baimble (bamboo shoot) curry, Kuru (lentil/ Rajma) curry along with the above, pandhi curry (pork curry) is eaten with a rice accompaniment that always usually is teamed with a respective dish. Each of these accompanied with a specific gravy dish makes the meal combination complete. Even an Euhl (sesame seed) Pajji (chutney/ paste) is teamed with the Akki Otti (rice roti) for breakfasts often.

Over the years, these traditional recipes have been passed on to us by our grandmothers for generations. Thus keeping it very

authentic and true to it's roots and traditions.

The Drunken Pig is an initiative to share food stories of Coorg it's culture and traditions without diminishing it's vitality. A step toward building a collaborative sharing experience across the Coorg community and other food lovers. To view our recipes, go to the recipe section of this website or click here.

Pandhi Curry (Pork Curry) served with Kadambuttus (Rice Balls) and Thaléputtu (Rice Cake)

Photograph by Tanya Mehra

Illustration of the Garcinia Gummi-Gutta

The fruit used to make Kachampuli extract

Pandhi Curry and Kadambuttu made on Kailpodh 2020, the Coorg festival of Kailpodh (the worship of arms). On this day, the Coorgs clean their weaponry and decorate them with the Flame Lily flower. To celebrate they have games of air gun shooting, and prepare this delicious meal of Pork Curry and Rice Balls